Saturday, June 25, 2011

Peddling My Grampa



My Grampa Tom Beahan’s, picture is on the cover of my book. I think he is what people buy when they buy it. The title of the book is “My Grampa’s Woods, the Adirondacks.” Maybe it would be more respectful to call him the salesman rather than what is being sold. But when I’m peddling the book through the Adirondacks it feels like I’m selling Grampa Beahan. I am uncomfortable about it.

Having given it some thought, I believe he would be ok with the idea. He was in business as a jobber in the woods hoping to wind up with enough cash to feed six kids and squeeze out enough to put a down payment on the Black River Valley farm that he and Gramma Minnie Beahan dreamed of. I think he’d be sympathetic about shilling for me.
Grampa was proud of the picture I put on the book cover. It had a place of honor in the dining room of the Beahan house on Beaver Lane in Carthage. That’s where I came to visit them long after they came down out of the woods. He does looks pretty good there standing in front of the logging crew that he and his two brothers, John and Barty, ran on the Little River from 1900 to 1911. The fact that they could be taken for a northern edition of the Frank and Jesse James gang just adds a dash of daring.  He’s there in his beat-up lumberjack clothes, thumbs hooked inside his suspenders, high-topped calked-boots and wearing a proprietary look on his mustached face. One middle-aged lady running a gas station convenience store said, “My folks used to work in the woods, too.” Then pointing to the patches on Grampa’s pants she said,  “Look, there’s where he wore out his pants holding crosscut saws across his lap while he set the teeth.”  She took five books.
Another lady, who runs a little grocery, said, “My husband works in the woods. They still dress like that. I’ll take one. He’ll like it.”
I wrote this book, published it myself. Suddenly I had three thousand of them and a big hole in my bank account. North Country Books of Utica agreed to distribute them for me. And they sold quite a few but my attic and their warehouse still creaked with crates of my book. 
Waldenbooks stocked it and had me stand out in front of their mall stores in Watertown, Syracuse and Massena, book in hand, doing my pitchman thing.  I never sold more than five in two hours and that was after driving all the way there from Buffalo. One guy came up to me in front of the Massena store and said, “You should get on Public Television.  The Watertown station shows this video “Lumberjack Sky Pilot” during their membership drives. I’ll bet they’d sell your book.”
I called them up and that worked out. WPBS sold books in two drives and told a lot of people about it. I would stop into a little gift shop like Creekside Gifts on the Round Lake Road between Booneville and Old Forge and the middle-aged proprietor would take a look through her glasses and say “Oh yes, I heard about this on TV.
 I had one particularly memorable successes before I settled on my final approach to selling books. It was when I was scheduled as a preliminary act for a book signing in a Nature Preserve outside Syracuse where Ann LaBastille was the headliner. I read a couple funny stories, got the crowd laughing and they bought 17 of my books. The young Borders organizer of the event said later on,  “Congratulations, that’s more than Ann sold of one of her older titles.” Of course people were standing in long lines to have her sign her latest title.
 Selling books one at a time was working very slowly. Of course, I was grateful to all my relatives who bought books from me but he was their Grampa too. You get more money back when you sell directly to the consumer but to sell three thousand of them retail would have been an impossible amount of work. So I became a wholesale peddler of “Grampa,” traveling the back and front roads of the Adirondacks and seeing the Adirondacks from a new, a commercial, perspective.
To me, Jim Scanlon’s bakery in Harrisville was no longer a place for a donut fresh out of the grease and a bowl of bean soup. It was a place where maybe they could sell books. I learned, after calling the present owner by the wrong name, that Jim is no longer the proprietor. I also learned that this owner wasn’t too interested in going into the book business. “But if you’ve written about this place in there, I’ll buy one,” he said.
I knew I had something in the book about Scanlon’s but it took me twenty minutes of searching to find. It was worth it because between him and two customers and the girl he had waiting on the counter they got together the wholesale price of $38.85 for five and paid that instead of the $12.95 each it would have cost them retail. My wife, Lyn, and I gave him back some of that for a couple of glazed sinkers and coffee while I autographed the books.
Lyn comes along and drives while I hop in and out of the car. While I am in a store she does the accounting in the car. Then every once in a while we stop to have a picnic, go for a walk or put the canoe in the water. We become tourists again instead of business people.
In Booneville, I sold  two books to a place called Persnickity’s, one in a jewelry store and a few more to Grandma’s Attic; then, on impulse I tried Chuck Hughes’s Hardware store. Chuck took a half dozen. I signed them, leaning on a worn counter I shared with a pile of paint cans. When we got home two days later he had left a taped message on our answering machine, “We sold out your book. Can you send us 12 more?” 
We stopped by a few months later and Chuck took twenty-five. Maybe it’s because of Lumberjack Days that they celebrate there.  That worries me some because the book is not just about lumberjacks. A whole lot of it is camping, canoeing, hiking and mountain climbing with the Adirondack Mountain Club, an outfit that is a staunch defender of “Forever-Wild” type wilderness toward which some loggers may not be very sympathetic.  I may have let Grampa get me into some trouble here. Ace Hardware in Old Forge has sold just about as many as Hughes but I think they get more of a summer resident and tourist trade.
My best-selling locations are gas station-type grocery stores and “Nice ‘n Easy’s.”  They set the book on the counter. When people are cashing out their gas and beer they get a look at Grampa and the Boys. They pick him up and see a piece of the Adirondacks to take home or else if they are locals they want to look up and see if someone they know is in the book.
Most of the time I get paid in cash or with a check on the spot. But, not infrequently, it goes like this. A man in dungarees and a flannel shirt with a pencil over his ear will thumb through the book, suck in his cheeks and say,“ I like your book but I don’t have the cash just now.  How about if I send you a check at the end of the month?” I was skeptical of that arrangement at first. I turned it down a few times but I hated to pass up some good-looking locations. Even the Railroad at Thendara did that to me. So I started going for it. I have never been stiffed. A handshake or your word seems to be binding in the Adirondacks and cash is often not plentiful early in the season.
In Childwold once I ran into a misunderstanding. I mailed an order of books with an invoice and never heard from the lady who ran the place.  I called her about it and she had no record of the shipment. We chalked it up to, “The mails in these parts.”  I came through with some more a few months later and she came rushing over red-faced from her cottage in the back.  “I’m so embarrassed. I found the invoice.” And she had the clerk pay me for both orders.
Adirondack stores like Hoss’s in Long Lake, the gigantic Hardware Store in Old Forge, and even some tiny places like Bonnie's grocery in Forestport are accustomed to buying books from North Country Books.  But I found that there are many small operations that don’t even think about selling books until an author comes in with one in hand. Then they still may not think much of the idea. I’ve several times heard, “If I buy yours, I’ll have to buy every local author that walks in here.” That’s when I have to get persuasive or lucky or pray for divine intervention. Peter O’Shea has a book with a pretty cover showing a panther. He knows the country around Star Lake and the Little River very well and writes about it but his pretty panther’s looks are no match for my handsome Grampa.
There is a little woodcarving shop on Route 28 south of Old Forge. Hoping for a sale, I spent forty-five minutes there expounding on the intricacies of the publishing game. The young woman-owner dressed in her red plaid woolen shirt  was only interested in her own book, not in selling mine.
I thought that Lake George and Lake Placid with all their hotel space and tremendous volume of tourist traffic would be a gold mine for me.  I trudged up and down their main drags and found the pickings mighty sparse.
 In Lake George I went into a well-appointed gift shop and talked with an attractive blond woman in a pink pants suit, the owner. I gave her my spiel doing my best not to make it sound too canned. “This is my Grampa, This is his brother Barty. Gramma was the cook. She hated it at the camp. I have a bunch of stories from those days and then a lot more modern ones about camping hiking and canoeing. They sell for $12.95. If you buy five or more you get them for 40% off.”  Having repeated this literally more than two hundred times it is not easy to keep it fresh.
But she listened patiently, then it came down to this. She smiled bewitchingly and said, “It’s a nice book and I think it would sell but I’m used to keystoning.”
“What’s that?”
“I buy something to sell and I turn it over for twice the cost.”
I explained that I have an agreement with my distributor, North County Books, not to undersell them so I could not do that. But she was very friendly and we continued to talk for a while. I was curious about where the concept of keystoning came from and what might be the source of the word. The closest we could come to it was that it was an old term in marketing, a kind of rule of thumb to strive for but that the real prize was to buy for one price and sell for three times that. I could see I was over my head here in the big city. I went on and sold very few books. Then I came to a store specializing in clocks. What have I got to lose, I thought. I went in and there was the keystoning lady, apparently the owner of two stores. We both smiled. I said “You haven’t changed your mind have you?”
She said, “I was thinking about you and feeling bad  that I turned you down.”
I said, “I was thinking of coming back to your other store and making  another offer. How about six for $40.”
“Sure, I’ll take them.”
In Bloomington, a little-four corner town back of Lake Placid, Kim, puttering around in the flower tent she has attached to her grocery store, the Bloomin Market, took twelve books without batting her pretty  eyelashes and ordered more by phone a month later. Norman’s Grocery, half a block away, took another half a dozen and when I complained about how tough it was to make a nickel in Lake Placid the no nonsense owner behind the meat counter agreed,  “They are a tough bunch.”  
Near Speculator I thought I saw a likely little shop at the far end of a building that also housed the Fox’s Lair tavern. Outside the tavern were 15 beautifully polished motorcycles. I went in what I thought was the shop door and found myself in a barroom full of big guys in black leather jackets and with either pony tails or Vietnam era bandanas on their heads. They were flushed-faced from beer and son and having a good time. One tattooed guy at the bar teasingly asked me what I was carrying. I brazened it out, handed him a book and laid on my spiel for him and a pal. The pretty barmaid steered me to her somewhat lit up employer who, seeing the interest of his customers, authorized her to give me my $38.85 out of the till. I bowed out quickly.
On our sales trip last May, Lyn and I took a couple hours off to tour the Paddlefest at Inlet. It was so windy that when we tried out a canoe we took it up the channel into Fifth lake rather than venture out and risk capsizing in Fourth. We stopped in most of the shops and sold to Kalil’s Market and the new book store, Adirondack Reader.
Indian Lake was fun. A news store and a gift shop, who I had sold books to previously, were not ready to be resupplied. I went into a third, a general store, smile on my face and pile of books under my arm and asked for the owner. A kid inside said, “You just missed him. He’s across the street chasing a moose.”
I ran back to the car.  “There’s a moose loose in town,” I yelled at Lyn as I rummaged in the back seat for my camera. We followed down the way the kid pointed and across some backyards where we joined a couple with two little children, a DEC officer and two other men. There, chewing his cud while lying down in some heavy brush, was a great big old moose. I had never seen one up so close.
One of the men was the storeowner. I walked back to the store with him thinking that since we shared this adventure I had a sale for sure. He didn’t buy and. I don’t know why.
In a small way, missing that sale made me feel like Gramma and Grampa. They worked 11 years in the woods and came out with the down payment on the Maxwell farm. Then they couldn’t make enough cash off the farm to keep it from the bank. Grampa said, “Well, at least we got a year’s living out of it.”
The book won’t make us rich but it took us through a whole series of new Adirondack adventures, commercial ones. And we’d never have seen that moose except for trying to sell books to a storekeeper who would rather chase moose.

Monday, May 2, 2011

Little River Portage by Larry Beahan

 Bernie Suskevitch, the ranger at Wanakena said, "Why sure.  You can make it through from Star Lake to Aldrich, now.  May be a few blowdowns.”
“Great!”
“Old Mister Schuler died.  He left his place to Clarkson University.  They sold it to the State.”
“Oh yeah?”
Lot of people want to try it.  You'll be the first ones."
By golly, that was just what I was looking for, the chance to be first on something.  But I hadn't paid enough attention to the blowdown part.  It would have been smart to ask Bernie a few more questions.
I called my son, Nick, in Vermont. "Lets sneak-in a canoe trip, before the black flies wake-up."
"Great.  Where to?"
"I just got off the phone with Bernie Suskevitch, the ranger at Wanakena.  That Schuler inholding, the one that blocked the Little River portage, it belongs to the state now.  We can paddle past Grampa's old camp."
"Let's do it."
 We met at the Cranberry Lake Inn on a Friday night early in May.  The weather was damp and blustery.  The Inn had a “For Sale” sign.  An elderly couple were stretching out a meal in the dining room and two fishermen were watching TV with the barmaid.  A waitress greeted us with, "Sorry, no prime rib tonight."
We enjoyed our spaghetti and meatballs and caught each other up on family doings.  These outings with my kids are better than visiting at home.  They let us live together 24 hours a day; eat, sleep, paddle, hike, argue and talk.  If you do that with a stranger for a few days, they get to be like family.  With family they become people again, not just voices at the other end of “your preferred-long-distance-carrier.”
After dinner, the manager fiddled with the electric heater in our room so that it finally warmed up enough to take off our pile and fleece.  We poured over topo maps for the Oswegatchie and Little Rivers.  Nick agreed to my plan, a first time trip from Star Lake to Aldrich portaging the falls of the Little River.  In route we would pass the site of the old Yousey logging camp where Nick's grand dad was born. That accomplished, we would paddle the East branch of the Oswegatchie on Sunday, Monday and Tuesday.  We thought we might make it a distance above High Falls in that much time.
Next morning, we were ordering pancakes at the Stone Manor Diner across from the Inn.  I said, "We ought to stop at Wanakena and let Suskevitch know we are actually going to do this trip."
"Sure," Nick answered.  He wasn't paying much attention.  He was busy negotiating for fruit in our pancakes.  The cook was all out of blueberries but she offered to try adding strawberry-sundae-topping to the batter.  These pancakes gave us plenty of carbohydrates but if you are ever in that situation consider having the strawberries on top instead of inside.
At Wanakena, Bernie was cordial and enthusiastic.  He came out of his front-porch office into the light rain with a cud of tobacco in his cheek.  He inspected our canoe and us in our big rubber boots, Gore-Tex hats, and rain suits and our canoe.  He spat and wished us well.
"We're going in off Young's Road back of Star Lake," I said.
"You'll be the first ones."
Nick asked, "Any special way to do the portage?"
"Keep an eye out for what's left of the footbridge.  Then get out at the concrete abutments of the old Schuler Road Bridge beyond that.  You best get out there on the North side.  Some folks got lost on them roads down on the south side last year."
"With a canoe?" I asked.


                                                    Larry Beahan and Canoe

"No.  Walking.  You ought to walk up the road to take a look at the Schuler cabin."
That seemed to pin things down.  We presumed we could carry up the road to the cabin, keep on going and put in below the falls, a big presumption.  We had read Paul Jamison's excellent description of the Little River.  He paddled up the river from Aldrich to the western edge of the inholding and he also paddled down to its other edge from Star Lake.  But he had never traversed the forbidden segment itself so he did not describe what lay between.
We had not bothered to ask Bernie whether he had inspected that in-between part, either.  He must have felt that he had covered that point, by conceding to us the honor of being first.  Playing the bold voyageurs as we did, he probably thought that we thought we knew what we were getting into.
I had tucked in the back of my mind an image of the Schuler inholding road. As I remembered, it looped briefly from the river at the inholding bridge, back to the river beyond the falls, while its main route ran past Readaway Ponds up to Star Lake.  It seemed a royal road past the falls and a bailout option if it did not work as a portage.
We drove the Coffin's Mills road out of Oswegatchie Village to Aldrich.  We planned to drop one of our two cars along the woods road that follows the bed of the old Carthage and Adirondack Railroad.  The road parallels a stretch of the Little River, near Aldrich, before bearing off to Streeter Lake.  The road was, ominously, gated.  There were signs giving mileage, prohibiting camping and warning of wind damage.
As we drove back toward Star Lake, I said, "Nice name, Coffin's Mills.  Sounds grim."
"No.  It's just a common New England name, " Nick said.  I was reassured.  At least he wasn't spooked.
We loaded our 17 foot Kevlar Wenona with enough gear to get us through the night, in a pinch.  We put it into the water where the Little River passes under Young's Road.  Within fifty yards we were lifting over and working around blowdowns.  Within one hundred and fifty we were in what seemed to us an impenetrable jungle growing out of the water.
"See that yellow blaze?" Nick said.  "Maybe that's a portage “ around this stuff."
"Maybe, let's take a look."
We looked and we looked and we climbed blowdown and crawled over slash left from salvage logging and we found no clear way by land or water.  Here and there we found patches of yellow paint and some sections of skid road.  We got separated.  Near somebody's old camp, Nick finally found water that bore some resemblance to river but seemed to have no way to get to it.  We found each other, using our whistles, went back for the canoe and by turns threaded and wrestled it through blowdown, slash and brush into water.  Later we realized that those yellow blazes had nothing to do with a portage.  They were State property lines.
                                                              Little River Blowdown

There followed a peaceful interlude of paddling with only a few ordinary blowdowns and strainers.  We never did identify Tamarack Creek that should have joined the river at about our second put-in.  We also did not see the remains of the old footbridge.  We did start to hear some roaring water and we noted the walls of the riverbank rising into a canyon ahead.  Then, we saw what remained of the Schuler Road Bridge.  Marvelously alerted by that roar, we exited just above the bridge and began our carry.  The 1500 pace canoe carry, on the road, was a pleasant contrast to the bushwhack.
As we walked along under the canoe something about the lay of the land made me wonder if I had read the map correctly.  I said, "Do you suppose this road runs right down to the river on the other side of the falls?"
"I thought you said you saw that on a map somewhere."
"In Jamison's book...there looks like a kind of a loop of road from the bridge, back to the river," I answered.
"I hope you saw right."
A more careful look, later, showed that the loop was above the falls not around them. 
At the height-of-land we came out from under our canoe and set our packs down.  We understood, right away, why old man Schuler was reluctant to share this place.  It's an eagle's nest perched high above the roaring water of the falls.  The cabin is without a roof but a few paces off the veranda and you are on a rocky outcrop.  There, below, white foaming water pours out of a jagged rock crevasse.  Downstream, boulders keep the water churning for a quarter of a mile.  Green forest surrounds it all.
The sun had broken through and dried the grass tolerably.  We took out bagels and cheddar cheese and we lay down to refresh ourselves.  The view and our anticipated victory added relish to the meal.
A road does seem to continue on past the cabin down river.  We hoisted our burdens and started on, negotiating one or two more blowdowns before finding the road to dead end in the woods.  So we carried back to the cabin and did some scouting without our packs and canoe.  A path leads from the cabin to a spring half way down the canyon wall.  An aluminum dipper still hangs at the spring.  We worked our way to the canyon floor and bolder-hopped out into the river to get a full view of the waterfall.  The rushing waters and giant rocks are a soothing, hypnotic sight.  They held us there in awe for twenty minutes as we pondered how to get past them and the rapids that stretched beyond.
                                           Nick Beahan below Schuler Falls in the Little River

The tangled shore looked almost as tough as the tumbling river.  We retreated up the canyon still dimly hoping for some road access to the river.  We did find a road that looked promising.  We followed it as it branched off the Schuler Road a few hundred yards north of the cabin.  But several blowdowns later we came to its end, in woods.  By then it was 3:30, so we decided to carry out by the road to Star Lake.  It was about a mile and would not have been a bad carry except for our disappointment and weariness.
We stopped off at Wanakena.  Bernie broke away from the gathering at the Saturday Barbecue in the little park in front of his house.  A light misty rain had begun again so the group were mostly huddled in the shelter.
"Did you make it?" he called as he approached.
"Nope," Nick responded.
"What happened?"
"It's a jungle from Young's Road over towards Schuler's," I put in.
"That so?  It was all cleared out last year."
I shook my head, "It's a terrible mess now."
 "And there's no way to get past the rapids, once you are around the falls," Nick added.
"You don't say.  Well that's valuable information.  Thanks, for letting me know."
"I wouldn't advise anyone else to go that way, `til it’s cleared out a little better," I said.
"I don't know if they are going to do anything about that.  You might want to write to the Unit Manager at Potsdam and see what you can get them to do."
"Have you ever been through there?" Nick asked.
Bernie moved the tobacco to his other cheek.  "No never have.  Been to both ends.  Not this year, though."
"We're going to try the Oswegatchie tomorrow." I said.
"That should be a lot easier, `til you get up above High Falls.  Had some people come through from Lowe's Lake the other day.  The portage was clear but the river was pretty bad up above the falls."
Two years before, Nick and I had looked at the far end of the Lowe's-Lake-Oswegatchie portage right after the disastrous microburst blowdown had devastated the area.  We could have walked the route five feet off the ground hopping from downed tree to downed tree but no one could have gotten a canoe through there then.  At least what we had been through along the Little River was nothing like that.
"We'll let you know if we come out alive," Nick added.
Bernie shook hands with us both and ducked for cover back toward the shelter, "See you."
Sunday the weather started bright and windy on the Oswegatchie but it was all clear paddling back and forth on its meanders.  We rested at High Rock to wonder at the uprooted trees and admire fiddleheads and little yellow flowers blooming, hawks sailing, herons cruising and little formations of ducks.  As we paddled, a couple of nice big deer watched us, unafraid as we watched them.
We camped at the lean-to just beyond Griffin's Rapids where the trail comes in from Cage Lake.  I had spent a night there ten years before with my older son, Teck, on a hike from Aldrich to Wanakena by way of Cage Lake.  An old map had led us to think that a bridge crossed the river there.  A couple of fishermen in a canoe graciously saved us from an October swim by providing ferry service.
On the present trip, Nick and I ran into rain Sunday night and most of Monday.  He was snug and dry in his tent, reading.  I was pacing back and forth in the lean-to, itching to do something.  Things looked even darker to me than they really were since I had forgotten my regular glasses and had to wear prescription sunglasses the whole time.
Nick said, "You know I slept in late this morning so that we'd be in the same time frame, in terms of perceived light."
"Thanks, a lot, Nick."
To pass the time, he read to us from the lean-to's thick logbook.  There were tales of floods, mosquitoes, campfires and good times.  One entry was particularly intriguing.  It was about someone being chased into a tree by a bear.  When the victim licked the bear in a fair fight we began to realize that the story was about as reliable as Nick's reason for sleeping in.
Late that morning, at my urging, we took off upstream in the rain.  It was still raining by mid afternoon and we were damp, so damp we could feel the mildew growing inside of our rain suits.  We voted and I won.  So we headed back for dry beds at the Cranberry Lake Inn.
By the time we came to the take-out at Inlet the weather had changed into a beautiful sunshiny day.  Just then the black flies came-to.  They bloomed in the sun and swarms descended upon us. We threw our canoe on the car roof.   Unable to lash it properly, for the bugs in our eyes, ears and mouths, we put one line over the canoe and dashed out of the swarming area.
The next day, Tuesday, we still had half a day so we put on head nets and walked back to explore the Little River portage sans canoe.  It is an easy walk from Star Lake, past the pretty Readaway ponds to the falls.
There we descended the canyon again and worked our way along the riverbank.  Back in the woods, for a time, there was a game path paralleling the water.  Spruce brush, boulders and blowdown covered most of the route past the rapids.  Walking was difficult enough not to tempt us to try that way with the canoe until someone had been through there with an axe and a crosscut saw, us if necessary.
The river is rough almost all the half-mile from the falls to the site of the Yousey camp.  The 1916 New York Oswegatchie Quadrangle shows the camp on the south bank opposite a small brook near which a road, from Star Lake to Aldrich, crosses the Little River.  I think we found that brook which, my Uncle Raymond says, was "Sometimes known as Beahan Creek." (Perhaps it was so known by him and his little cousin Bessie.)
Raymond remembered fishing behind a dam and from a corduroy bridge across the river.  Jamison describes, "a rock reef clear across the stream bed,” as "the signal that you have nearly reached the W. edge of the half mile wide private land."


Jamison's rock reef is there.  I suspect that it is the remains of the dam and the bridge.  But there is little else to suggest that a road once crossed the river there.
We wanted to cross to the camp on the south side of the river but lots of water was pouring through.  The river is thirty to forty feet wide there and up to four or five feet deep.  It was too chilly for a swim so we left that for next time.
We had a great farewell dinner at the Twin Spruce, which appears to be the first new restaurant in Star Lake in the last fifty years.  The french fries and apple pie there are the kind that are worth every bit of their cholesterol, the kind to die for.
As we shook hands to part, Nick said, "It wouldn't take much."
"You want to?"
"With a little help."
"I'll call that guy at the DEC, that Bernie told us about."
"You got to come along, too."
"Let's do it."
                        Uncle Raymond Beahan and a Cousin Leo on a Corduroy Bridge in the 1920's

This story is a part of our negotiations with the DEC to get rid of those strainers and to cut a portage around the falls of the Little River. If you want to get into the act, speak to Pat Whalen about it.  He's, the DEC Unit Management Planner for the Little River at 6739 U.S. Highway 11, Potsdam NY 13676.  Tell him you would like to make this trip and that you would particularly like to help saw through some of that blowdown.

Tuesday, April 12, 2011

Diana Pond Log Book

                         
Larry Beahan 

In October 1985, my son Teck and I backpacked across the Stillwater Reservoir Dam north through Five Ponds wilderness to Wanakena, about 25 miles in three days. We breakfasted sumptuously before we left the Stillwater Inn. 

Teck and Larry Beahan at Stillwater 

After crossing the dam we followed Ranger Terry Perkins directions along Raven and Lyon Lakes to the juncture of Bear and Diana Ponds. We found a little camp in a wooded spot where water flowed over a rock outcropping between the two ponds.  Inside there sat on an old cupboard a spiral steno pad with Camp Log handed printed on the cover. We scanned a few entries and left this one of our own passing through.

Out front, sun-bathed rocks at the water’s edge invited us to rest. We lunched on bagels and chunks of cheddar cheese. While I sat there munching, Teck snapped a picture which I used as an illustration when I published an account of that trip. We talked of returning on skis in the winter but never did get back.
Twenty two years later I received a letter from Ed Kuster saying he had in his possession the Log Book from the cabin on Bear and Diana Ponds. He had rescued it in 1986 just before the DEC burned the place down.  


When Ed and I got together it was apparent that though we were very different in some ways we had a great deal in common. He is a couple years older than me, late rather than middle seventies. We both bear scars of ageing so that we re not as able in the woods as we used to be. The main thing is that we are both fond of the woods and particularly the Five Ponds Stillwater region of the Adirondacks.  He’s a hunter with a lifetime kill of 44 deer and 4 bear. I’ve never killed anything, on purpose.

                                               Ed Kuster and bear 1948
I recently considered taking up deer hunting because I think they are eating too much of our local woods’ under story  but when I got into the fine points of sitting out in the cold and dragging dead animals around , I decided it was more work than I was interested in.
He is opposed to the New York State policy of buying up Adirondack Forests and making them forever wild; forever wild is my favorite kind of forest. Just to needle me he crowed that it was his ambition to go down around Zoar Valley (where we local Western New Yorkers have just persuaded the State to protect an old growth forest) and buy five hundred acres to log off. After that thrust, he offered an olive branch. “I use an ATV up there,” he said, “because it is hard for me to get around but I got to admit they do make a mess out of the woods.”
I had to nod my head in agreement. I hate ATV’s for that mess.
 He went on, “It’s those advertisements. They don’t have to show ‘em skidding around in the mud and jumping the way they do. You should see our camp when we have the annual meeting at Bear Pond late in August. We’ll have 50 to 80 of them parked around.”
Ed has an unpublished book that covers his sixty years of hunting and hunting club membership around Bear Pond. An uncle of his who first took Ed up there in 1946 provided him with stories from years before that.  The book is an excellent account of the place and a great primer in hunting technique, clothes, and guns styles of stalking and means of transport.  
One of Ed’s favorite subjects is that of flying into Bear Pond. Bird air service would fly over from fourth lake pick them up at Stillwater and drop them off at the camp’s front door. I wasn’t too impressed with the need to fly from Stillwater to Bear Pond a distance that Teck and I covered in a morning jaunt but then I saw pictures of the bear and deer and piles of supplies that they used in camp and I could understand the problem of carting all that stuff. Flying into those lakes is no longer legal.

1927 Waco at Diana Pond

Ed’s house is ornamented with Adirondack relief-map models, photo albums, mounted deer heads, even deer antler chandeliers but that little steno pad was the most fascinating gem of his collection.  
The camp whose comings and goings were recorded in this Log Book belonged to the Evergreen Hunting Club and was known as the Fisher Camp after the Fisher realty company from whom it was leased beginning in the 1950s. The first entry in the book is:

July 15, ’78.
Number in Party 1- Red
Left Main gate at 5:45 pm 2hr walk to landing1hr to
Bear Pond Saw 4 sets of
bear tracks to landing.
Not real fresh
Fresh bear sign within
400 yards of camp you
Could almost smell them.
Hit the rack at 2:30 am
Sun July 16
Worked on stove all day.
Saw four fox on way in Sat.
 Went for swim in bear
Hit trail at 5:00 P.M.  

Nice thing about being alone up in the woods you don’t need a bathing suit.
The Log Book is not great literature but if you’ve been there or if you are sitting in the camp while it’s raining and there is nothing much going on it can be absorbing. It is a chronicle of what people, in that unique place, thought and did and were willing to write down.

Ed Kuster Chief Cook and Bottle Washer

 Most of the handwriting is pretty good. Some of the spelling is terrible. The ideas are, well… interesting. Fantasy seems to have come to life when a writer was alone. Some of the fantasy has the aroma of alcohol fumes.  One entry was inscribed after the writer had drunk up all the tequila and eaten the worm.
Methods of getting there are recorded: walking, flying, canoeing, Toyota, skiing,    snowmobiling and via a long hard ride in a Jeep or a Toyota from Croghan. Hiking in got the most complaints. Like this from August “84
We are staying two more
nights. We will be leav-
ing Sunday. I hate to think
 of the walk back.
 Going to leave any exter 
food. that we do not eat.
 Don’t want to carrie eny
 exter back.
This colorful writer goes on to yearn for conjugal experience, threaten to roll cigarettes out of Captain Black pipe tobacco and yearn for the days when there were fish in Diana and Bear pond.

One girl who signed off “Wide Glide Harley’s and Sportster Women  Forever” seemed a little wilted after riding a Harley from Binghamton  to Stillwater, canoeing across  the reservoir and walking into camp only to be talked into spending the night there at Bear Pond with out provisions or equipment and then anticipating a trip back to Binghamton in the rain.
Locally picked blueberries for a blueberry pancake breakfast. One of the biggest breakfasts I’ve ever heard of potatoes, cake, stew, pancakes and coffee. One of the smallest was a can of Pepsi split four ways. Steak sounded good. corn bread cake baked in the oven meatloaf and rolls in the oven squash.
Ed Kuster told me he did a lot of cooking during hunting camp. He recalled that during his first few seasons at bear pond all they ate was fresh liver. The custom being to take out whole deer to hang in front of your house as a trophy. When he finally persuades them to eat fresh venison the folks at Stillwater were horrified to see them bring in partially consumed deer.
This reminds me of a trip to Kodiak island Alaska. We stayed with Inuit at a bear hunting camp they were converting to an ecological tourist site. We were anticipating eating Indian style, fresh salmon, and king crab and maybe bear steak. They served us real Indian food, canned peas, wonder bread and caned spaghetti.
  Backpacking we eat pretty simple, instant oatmeal with raisins brown sugar and margarine all ready to add boiling water, hot chocolate, freeze dried spaghetti, bagels cheese and jam  dried fruit  cookies and chocolate all in combustible paper or plastic so we have as little weight  and clean up as possible, no fresh meat, fruit or vegetables no tin or glass. We clearly do not eat as well as the average visitor to Bear Pond did.
And generally we don’t allow our selves any alcohol till we finish the trip. On a rare occasion I’ve carried a tiny quantity of Curacao to celebrate something special. I got that idea from Roal Amundsun. The night after he and his crew reached the South Pole they celebrated with an ounce each of that delicious piercing orange flavored drink.
 Few people actually wrote about hunting. Though on November a party of four got two bucks, six and eight pointers. A few tried fishing but had no luck in the e immediate vicinity. There are Trout in the Oswegatchie not far away.
Many folks comment on the weather.
Sunday August 13 1978
Rain Saturday morn
Thunder in the distance all day Sat.
 Heavy rain Sat. nite
Sunday Beautiful Sunny day
Perfect Temperature went
swimming in Diana
Some one else heard booming all day and decided it was bombing presumably at Fort Drum.
Insects get fairly prominent mention. On Wednesday Aug 16 1978 some one who signs himself in as “Trespasser” says:
Been camping in Kettle Bowl,
Decided to take a day hike to
Bear Pond
I was here last summer
after the bear sacked the
place, it has shaped-up.
Well, thanks for a place to avoid
the deer flies.
Left same day.

Many visitors signed the log as Trespassers.  there were other camps in the neighborhood and the owners seemed to keep an eye on each others property and make use of it at will. When Teck and I went trespassing through there we didn’t admit it till we got out though we had the word of Ranger Terry Perkins that no one would mind. In June of 1982 a party signed in as DEC Professional Bird watchers. hey found amusing spiders a fawn that wrinkled its nose at them. They complained, "Where are the birds.”They found no hawks, owls or herons. birds. 
Most every one signed in the number in there party one or two was the most common number but there were parties of four six and eight. The most interesting census was someone who signed in saying his crew had sixteen legs among them. He left us speculating, a couple octopus, two spiders and a dog, three dogs and two people or what.
One couple after drinking Southern Comfort and Grape juice broke the upper bunk over an unfortunate occupant.
An old timer came through with his son saying:
Camp looks different
than the first time I saw
it in 1938 and considerably
better than when I last
looked in 1967.

Chores were a big part of many visits, fixing the stove, recharging the door, cutting wood

Club members and visitors took on new names perhaps to help throw of the feeders of civilization in this wild place, Bilbo, the Monk, and Feel-boy, Jake the Snake and Brocks were one crew. Another was Wounded Bear and Ol’ Joe from Penns Woods. The boys from Buffalo came styled as Old Chief, Squaw Man and, Little Piece. Then there was Little Wolf, Morning Thunder and their Dog Sebastian or Sebachan.  At least I think Sebastian was the dog from some later reference to him but don’t hold me to it.
 Apology for using too much wood
March 1&2 (1979)
Trespassers party of 2, walked
up from flow.
Bitter cold Hope
NYSDEC doesn’t burn this place.

Foreshadowing the eventual fate of this camp which was burned as non-complying structure in 1986.
Some locals stopped by Diana pond and informed the book that in the old days it was known as Dog pond.
The center piece of the whole book is an epic done by a lone visitor starting with this July 4th 1984 sketch. 
Beginning on the next page and day he goes on for 7 pages of neatly scripted soliloquy.  He is pleased that he saw no fire works and suggests an easy substitute is hitting you in the head with a hammer. He discovers Captain Black pipe tobacco and finds that it goes well with Ballintine Scotch.  It rains much of the time and he goes for some walks becoming accustomed to “the moist state.” The sky clears briefly as he sits by Bear Pond only to cloud over again and rain some more which he observes, “The frogs seem to enjoy…”
Here the excitement begins. He is attacked, or claims to have been attacked by a swarm of bees. He takes refuge in the pond trying to maintain him submersed in three feet of water with out sinking into the five feet of black muck on the bottom. When ever he comes up he is attacked. So resourcefully he discovers his pen floating on the surface and he cuts off both ends to form a breathing tube by means of which he avoids those pesky bees for “It seemed like hours,” so he says. The reader wonders if it is the same pen that he converted to scuba gear which he reconverted to write the account.
He then launches into the story of his friend John who used fruit flies to cheat at Euchre. Euchre seems to have been a favorite pastime at Diana Pond. The eyes of the fruit flies and those of portraits of Lennin and Picasso figure some how in the meanderings of which he eventually tires. (and who can blame him.)  He finishes by not finishing but with an offer to send the rest of the story to any one who will mail him $5. I think I’ve gotten the point so I am saving my $5.

This author returns the end of August bringing us the story with which Ed Kuster first enticed me, how Diana Pond got its name. This time his story spins on for 16 pages.  His buddy puts a little finer point on it for him in a two page addendum.
Our story teller starts us off by painting an ominous picture of the wind coming up and clouds rolling in. He wonders who built this “caban.” The wind makes noise in the trees and it makes him think of bears. He claims out of the blue, “I ain’t frade of no Ghost!”  But then he telegraphs his trepidation by wondering what his buddy is doing.
He writes, in the twenties or thirties a logger named Jack was the first to cut timber in these woods. His families were loggers from way back and though he wasn’t real big he could cut down trees with any man. These were the days of hard working logging when the wood s were full of animals and you’d see three of four bears a week. And they ate very good too to do that kind of work but Jack had a temper and one time a big fellow named Hank spilled coffee on him and they  had a terrible fight. It took ten men to get Jack off Hank and a week to put the dining tent back in order. Loggers in those days worked hard and partied hard and Jack was no exception He’d work for a month and then take a week off.
This was a five year job at Diana pond and Jack built a cabin for himself. He worked at it in off hours and at night. You’d be sleeping and everything peaceful and you’d here that axe cracking across the pond. The writer seemed to be implying that he still heard it at night and it was sometimes cause for panic especially if you were trying to get up and check it out and your sleeping bag zipper got stuck. 
It took him three to four months to build it and he was ready to party in town. He was going to do some drinking and find a “Lady of the Night.” He drank so much the first night that he passed out and Hank the guy he fought with put him to bed for three days. When he got up he was hungry and he went to J.P.'s diner for diner. They always had good looking women working there.
Here the writer breaks off saying that he two is hungry but telling us that Jack met Diana at J.P.s. He sign off with, “Here’s where those noises across the Lake come from.” Then a PS: "Some people say they have seen things.”
The writer’s buddy named, “Pirate,” adds  that the way he hears it Diana didn’t stay very long at the pond because there was some misunderstanding between Hank and Jack over who’s girl she was.

There are just a few more brief notes naming the visitors and “Nice place might be back in the winter, a very beautiful spot in the middle of the wilderness or back in two weeks for deer hunting. The book closes with Teck and my note:

3 October 1985  Teck + Larry Beahan
Had lunch  Beautiful Fall Day
On way from Stillwater to Wanakena